Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Ireland has my Heart (and a message on rental cars and cell phone apps)

The first days of driving on the "proper" side of the narrow roads in Scotland were harrowing.... But we are now in the embrace of the humor and calm of Ireland. Here's the most important travel tips regarding rental cars and phone apps for everyone. 

1) Bring your Garmin GPS and buy the local map! Had I done this, I would have saved about $300 dollars!

2) Buy the full coverage insurance.

We have upgraded all of our rental cars at this point to include GPS, and full insurance coverage. We couldn't get GPS in Iceland, they were out of units, but it has been essential to our sanity in Scotland and Ireland. And one tire scrape during parallel parking on an old Scottish street lined with a stone curb made for the need of a tire and rim replacement (covered by insurance, thank God).

3) Download the following free apps to your cell phone:
       MapsMe
       Airbnb
       Google Voice (set this up to link to your home phone number before you leave your home country)
        Amazon Kindle app

Some guidebooks said don't bring the cell phone. That would have been ridiculous.
We say bring your cell (mobile) phone and load the right apps on it. Most important is one called MapMe. Open the app and download the maps for the countries you will visit. We are using Android MotoG phones. And we didn't buy a local sim card and we are not using the phones for calls so we keep them in airplane mode. MapsMe is amazing. It uses your device location (a free thing for emergency purposes on the cell phone) and can follow you. The best thing is when GPS acts a little drunk and sends you down an obviously wrong path, it doubles as backup.

Furthermore, most restaurants and all the Airbnbs and hotels we've stayed in have Wi-Fi. We use the Airbnb app to communicate with our hosts for directions and even if we need extra toilet paper. We read our Kindle book version of the Lonely Planet travel guides on the phone which is great when you hit an impasse and need dining or attraction ideas. And of course we communicate with friends via email and Google Voice for texts and forwarded voicemails.

Day 1 Ireland
Green, lush hills, farmlands separated by vine covered stone walls, rain, sun, rain, sun. Our day began with a lovely Palestinian breakfast made by our Airbnb host. Then off to Blarney Castle and gardens (15 min away) followed by a lovely afternoon in sweet Clonakilty. Finish with a peek at a surf spot south of Clonakilty and a mad dash/drive through Cork City in search of groceries.

Our backyard view

Perspective... Look at these micro environments of love ferns and flowers

Blarney Castle but no kiss


The manor at Blarney

Sweet bird songs







Sweet town of Clonakilty

An Sugan- best meal yet with a great environment and nice and funny wait staff

Salmon and potato cakes

Fish pie

Truth

So colorful


Boy running his horse from downtown Clonakilty and up into the hills.
We let him pass us and then we followed at 40 kmh for another km. Gotta love it.


Irish surf


Tunnels of foliage

Driving in Ireland. Way to do it Rory!




Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Scotland green

3 and a half days in Scotland...
We have been cruising the gorgeous rolling, green hills of Scotland for the past few days while sleeping our best sleeps yet in a lovely Airbnb outside a tiny village called Parton. The Airbnb which is a converted stable house and hosted by a massage therapist and nutrition consult, Lorna was the reason we ended up in the gentle quietude of Southern Scotland. Rick Steves so incorrectly stated that it's a boring area. It's not boring, it's Zen levels of peaceful.

This peace is exactly what the doctor ordered after driving on what the Scots call the "proper" side of the road in a car that is opposite to any car we've known.

Day 1- dine in Ayr and get to Parton alive
The stone walls, stone and brick homes and buildings, the architecture, the lush greens, the cloudbursts, and the terrifying narrow streets.

Lunch was lovely. I had fish and chips with smashed peas and a side salad. Hamburger and braised salmon were our other meals. Outside the restaurant windows people  with newspapers, jackets, or umbrellas protecting their heads scurrying  intermittently as the skies opened and closed with rain.

When we arrived at our Scotland oasis, in Parton, X and I roamed the hills for an hour. Sheep, cows, pines, foxgloves, and fields of ferns.

Day 2- Sunday, the town of Castle Douglas- lunch and food shopping, Kirkcudbright- Stewartry Museum, a remote beach off of  B727, and a glimpse of Threave Gardens in the rain.
Most places were closed on Sunday, but we found a nice restaurant in a hotel on the main drag where we ate steak and ale pie (a first for me), macaroni and cheese with fries and roast beef with veggies and potatoes. Starters were chicken strips with garlic mayo and breaded mushrooms with a sweet pepper sauce. Dessert? Of course. Sticky Toffee Pudding and vanilla ice cream. Meals done for the day. ;)

Then we went shopping at a large chain grocery store called Tesco. A wide variety of prices:
80p for a still-warm loaf of brown bread, 2£ for about 20 cherries,  2£ for 10 slices of ham for sandwiches, and 2£ for 4 Kinder chocolate bars. Ibuprofen is packed as something very different from Advil.

Day 3- water test, Homemade breakfast, Cardoness Castle (Gate of Fleet, McCulloch clan), Castle Kennedy,. Home sweet home.

(Pics are in reverse order of events)

Castle Kennedy and its 75 acres of beauty. Inexpensive, expansive, impressive. Best day yet.

Tea and cakes by the castle

Tea, cake, and Scottish condiments

The Earl and Duchess' house


Lotus Flower Pond

Monkey Puzzle Tree

Monkey Puzzle Tree seed pod

Polite way of saying please don't cheat

Cardoness Castle- with storage rooms, banquet hall, latrine, prison, three stories and a spiral staircase. Amazing.



Castles were not made for tall folks



Vertigo


View from the castle top

Upstairs floor

Our upgraded wheels

Millie in the boot

 Beach along B727



Kirkcudbright bridge

Stewartry Museum


Sticky Toffee Pudding

Steam and Ale Pie

Parton Stable house





First UK fish and chips in Ayr

Sites in Ayr

Glascow Airport pre-customs welcome

From the air

First Scotland sightings